Bowyer/Primitive skills

Bow_breaker

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May 16, 2010
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Well on the Hello thread there was some people interested in my work. I am creating a website in the future but for now here are some of my bows that i have done in the past...i have tons of other pictures but this is what i have in PB right now. My work ranges to simple hickory board bows at 125$ or linen backed kids bows for 75$ and up to bamboo backed reflex/deflex bows for 350$


hickory and bamboo


IPE and bamboo


Hickory stave bow cut from a log....old school



 

fordnut

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Oct 4, 2009
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I have to admit that I don't know much about bows, but, I do know good work when I see it...You Sir do good work...

I like your bows, and the arrows are very cool...

Steve
 

Red Hat

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Mar 16, 2010
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Thanks for sharing! Fantastic work. How many hours does it take to make them?
 

Frost

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Oct 1, 2009
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That is some awesome work.
You have to admire an old school craftsman.
 

Bow_breaker

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May 16, 2010
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Thanks fellas. As to the time involved it can take like 4 hours for a simple pyramid board hickory flat bow and all the way up to 25 hours for a multi laminated reflex/deflex or stave bow.
 

Low Branch

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May 6, 2010
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IT student? Nice, that is the direction I should have taken in life. I like Dreamweaver, and I still sometimes use it to make templates for CMS...
 

thebrasilian

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May 7, 2010
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I use to shoot a re-curve all the time. It was my Grandfathers. Personally I like the re-curves over the compounds.
 

Midnight Raver

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Sep 29, 2009
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Recurve bows... a skilled art. :cool:

Making them is an even more talented skill, good work Sir! I know from personal experience even gluing the heads on those arrows can be a royal pain. I've done somewhat ok with my field points over the years, had to redo some over each time though. Broadheads are a totally different ball game, I haven't even attempted that yet. Got any tips(no pun intended) to successfully accomplish this task?
 

Bow_breaker

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May 16, 2010
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I haven't payed for the site as of yet. Since my dealership closed down and tossed me out the door i may start my hand at it full time.

As for gluing on broad heads i find that using good epoxy helps.

Take an oversize pencil sharpener and cut your shaft true.

Dry fit your broadhead to ensure that it will fit corectly when dry without any preasure on any side, sandpaper slightly to get it streight.

Then clamp it 90 degree to the ground point up in a small vise.

Take a thin piece of cardboard (i use cards from an old poker deck) and cut small hols in them slightly smaller than your shaft diameter, slide them over the shaft to the location of where the broad head, this stops the glue from running down the shaft.

Mix your epoxy and set the head in place,check alignment and wait till cured.

No "shaft" innuendos intended during this broadcast. :)
 

Midnight Raver

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Check on the pencil sharpener routine, my uncle briefed me on that. He also had me using this glue stick so to speak. You would use a candle flame to melt the end of it and put it on the shaft tip, followed by the field point being attached before cooling. Maybe that is a real old school method now, the epoxy sounds easier! I still have a good sized piece of that glue stick though- I wonder if it is a wax/plastic compound?
 

Bow_breaker

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May 16, 2010
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iv tried the hot glue but could never get a long lasting arrow...i went on to epoxy and never looked back.

My points don't pop off now but if i sink an arrow into a tree i have to be careful not to break the shaft :)
 

Midnight Raver

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Yup, I've had a few field points pop off before. Your epoxy method seems a whole lot easier, especially since epoxies like Devcon have roughly a 5 minute grace period before fully setting. I am definitely trying that out next time, unless I go to modern arrows if they turn out to be cheaper nowadays...

I still love to use the Louisiana cedar ones that I have though. :cool:
 

Bow_breaker

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May 16, 2010
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2 companies that i have used are http://www.hildebrandarrowshafts.com/products.htm
There sitka spruce shafts are nice.

I have recently bin using http://www.hildebrandarrowshafts.com/products.htm The arrows that you see in the pic are them...they are a little bit hard to straighten but once they are clear coated and set in shape they hold up nice...also spine is more consistent.

Or you can go with the free and primitive option of looking around creeks for river cane. I also have a shaft turning jig and make poplar shafts but they don't spine out to consistent.

If you go modern fiberglass you can gently cut off the plastic crap feathers and glue on real ones...its what i hunt with. :oops:
 

Bow_breaker

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May 16, 2010
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Most of the bows that I make are laminated reflex/deflex bows with a strip of either hickory or bamboo (natures fiberglass) to hold the shape and tension to the back. But every now and then I get in the mood to just pick up a stave split out of a log and whittle one up the old fashioned way.

This is a 60 inch long hickory stave bow. It pulls [email protected] The string is b-50 Dacron. Finish is true oil. The shredded stripes on the back are cambium bark left on for looks.

No modern tools touched this wood except for the chainsaw that my Ponca freind used to harvest the tree.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/ ... AG0021.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/ ... 0019-1.jpg
The knot looks wild..it is on the upper limb
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/ ... AG0024.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/ ... AG0020.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/ ... 0018-1.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/ ... AG0017.jpg
 

Shootist

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Aug 25, 2010
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i hunt and target shoot with a damon howatt super diablo 43# three fingers under..........
 
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